So far, this pizza oven project has been rather uninteresting.  That is, unless you have a special place in your heart for concrete.  Going to school with some engineers, I definitely know this strange species of human being does exist.  But me?  This concrete stuff is just a means to the end goal.  Now that the oven stand is complete, there is finally only one more concretious (every now and then, i like to invent new words) step:  The Hearth.

Here is the stand before we start with the hearth.

Currently, the oven base is a big hollow rectangle.  It isn’t exactly pizza oven ready yet.  How can the brick dome stay on the oven  stand without support?  Simple.  It can’t.  That is where the hearth comes into play. The hearth will span the concrete block oven base and provide a level, strong base that will support the rest of the oven.

There are two parts to the hearth.  Each of these two different layers serve different goals:  Keep it up and keep it warm.  Let me elaborate a little bit.  The first (bottom) section of the hearth will provide the structural support to hold everything else up.  This is made of regular concrete.  Unfortunately, concrete doesn’t do so well when exposed to all of the heat up/cool down sessions (thermal cycling) that the oven causes.  When burning a wood fire in the brick oven that we are building, temperatures can easily reach 800 degrees.  At these temperatures,  it wouldn’t take long for the concrete to lose it’s strength.  What would happen then?  Bye bye pizza oven!

How do we protect the concrete from the temperature extremes seen in the oven?  We’ll keep those hot temps in the oven where they’ll do some good.  How?  The same way that we keep hot temps in our house in the wintertime – insulation.  The second section of the hearth is an insulation layer to keep the oven hot and the concrete cool.

Materials & Cost

Ok, so here are all of the materials that I used for the hearth.

  1. 80lb bags of concrete:  17 @ $3.60 = $61
  2. 1/2″ rebar, 10 ft sections:  9 @ $5.20 = $47
  3. 4 cu ft. bags of vermiculite:  2 @ $12 = $24
  4. 94lb bag of portland cement:  1 @ $12 = $12
  5. 2×4 8ft boards for supports:  4 @ $2.83 = $11
  6. 2×6 8ft boards for form:  4 @ $4.79 = $19
  7. 7/16″ sheet of OSB:  1 @ $8.87 = $9
Total for hearth:  $183
Running total for foundation, stand, and hearth: $547

The hearth requires a lot more of the same stuff that I have been using on the foundation and stand.  There is one additional special ingredient:  Vermiculite.

A display of the light and airiness of vermiculite

This is a classic display of my pure strength! Actually, vermiculite is super light and airy (hence it's use for insulation)

What is vermiculite?  Vermiculite is used a lot in the horticultural world.  It lightens up soil and prevents compaction.  It is made from crushed rock from some special mine.  I don’t really know all of those details, but here is what I do know.  This stuff is really light, airy, and makes for good insulation.  It is the main ingredient of the insulation hearth (keeps the heat inside of the oven).  We’ll also be using it later on to insulate the rest of the oven after we are done building the dome.

Structural hearth

The first duty of the hearth is to support the oven above it.  To do this, a reinforced slab of concrete will be poured directly over the oven block stand.  The structural concrete portion is 3.5″ thick reinforced with 1/2″ rebar every 12 inches.  Before pouring the concrete hearth, I had to build a wood stand and form to hold the concrete as it cured.  Most of the details are in the pics below, but I’ll give you a couple of pointers on things that worked well (and some that didn’t…)

Here is what worked pretty well:

  1.  I cut some wood shims so that I could fine tune the height of this form.  The bottom of the hearth doesn’t really have to be completely level, but it doesn’t hurt.
  2. To hold the rebar in the middle of the 3.5″ thickness, I used broken up pieces of block from the leftovers on the stand.
  3. To keep 2×6′s on the stand from bulging out from the pressure of the concrete, a ratchet strap worked perfectly.
And these probably weren’t the best ideas…
  1. Using a solid piece of plywood as the support on the bottom.  Why not?  Let’s just say that after I poured the hearth, that nice solid piece of plywood doesn’t fit through the smaller door without some tweaks (bringing out the circular saw and cutting it into 3 pieces).
  2. I started out without a support in the middle of the plywood.  Considering it was only 7/16″ thick OSB, it wasn’t extremely strong.  Once I started pouring concrete, it sagged a little bit.  I added a support and it firmed it up better.
wood supports for the structural hearth

These wood supports hold up the plywood, which in turn holds the concrete as it sets.

Ready for the 3.5" thick concrete hearth. The ratchet straps will keep the 2x6's from builging.

At this point, I am about tired of mixing concrete. Bag after bag after bag.  But there is light at the end of the tunnel!   As soon as this step is complete, the fun part begins.  So that gave me some motivation to keep charging.

pouring the structural hearth for the pizza oven

Pouring the structural hearth for the pizza oven. Remember when I left some empty cores when I built the stand? These are getting filled in now.

Insulating Hearth (Vermiculite)

Since it took me a lot of my Sunday to build the structural hearth, I gave up after I completed the structural section.  Some people pour both the structural and insulation on the same day.  These people are either crazy, much faster than I, had help, or all of the above.  Actually, since beginning this project I have realized that anyone who builds their own pizza oven has to have at least some craziness in them.  It is a long, long project that takes up a lot of evenings and weekends.  But it will be worth it!

This second phase of the hearth, the insulating hearth, will keep the heat from the oven inside and protect the structural concrete from getting extremely hot.  It is made of 7 parts vermiculite, 1 part cement (both by volume), and water mixed in until it is the consistency of oatmeal.  This part only has to go directly underneath of the oven.  As you can see below, I sectioned off some of the front because that is where the landing will be (where the eager friends/family will line up their pizzas ready for the oven).  I can’t wait until that day!

forming up the vermiculite insulating base

The structural hearth is complete and I am now forming up the vermiculite insulating base. THIS BASE MUST BE LEVEL!!!

Unfortunately, I didn’t get any pics of actually pouring the vermiculite base.  One evening after work, Lara and I were hard working individuals into the night under the glow of our floodlights.  She measured out the ingredients into our wheelbarrows while I mixed and poured.  Our system was working so well that we didn’t have time to take pictures (and it was pitch black out!).  After mixing this stuff up, it may feel like it will never setup solid.  But, to my slight surprise, it ended up setting pretty hard.  Oh yea, if you didn’t read the caption above, this part has to be level.  That is, unless you are aiming for lopsided pizzas!

And for a sneak preview of the next step, the pizza oven floor, I’ll let you see one brick…

Two days after we poured the vermiculite base, it was hard enough to start laying bricks on top of.

About a year ago, I saw this awesome sign at the end of our street. A 4×8 sheet of plywood with some glorious red paint that scripted these two words: FREE BLOCK. And right next to that sign, there was a large pile of gray concrete block. Oh how two words could mean so much! I rushed home (the whole 2 miles), got my truck, went to this guy’s house, and started loading that block right into the back of my truck. Heck, the guy even came out and helped me load. Apparently, his wife said it was time for that block to go. He was happy. I was happy.

After all was said and done, I had taken home two truckloads of block. After using some for various projects (maple syrup boiler and a compost bin), I had about 20 good ones left. Fast forward a year. My wife tells me that the block that I picked up a year ago was starting to look rather redneck in our side yard. Funny how things go around, isn’t it?

At the time, I had no clue how much a concrete block was. As it turns out, it wasn’t really that much of a money saver. At $0.98/block, 20 blocks are worth a grand total of about $20. But am I glad that I picked them up? Heck yea! These blocks have served as a motivational piece for our pizza oven. And now, after a year of sitting in the side yard, I am ready to use them up for their original intention: The Pizza Oven Base.

The oven base serves two purposes. First, and most importantly, it supports everything above it. The hearth rests on top of the block stand, and the actual brick oven section rests on top of the hearth. Second, the oven base is a storage area for the wood (or anything else that you want to keep down there).

Materials & Cost

The materials that I used for the oven stand are below. These are the total materials required. Since I already had some block, I actually bought a little less than what is below.

  1. 8x8x16 grey block: 52 @ $0.98/block = $51
  2. 8x8x8 grey block: 2 @ $1.02/block = $2
  3. ½” rebar, 10’ sections: 5 @ $5.20/pc = $26
  4. 80lb bags concrete: 14 @ $3.60/bag = $51
  5. 2” x 2” by 1/8” angle iron, 48” long: 2 @ $12 = $24 (thicker is better here, but I went cheaper. 3/8” is probably the best option, but expensive)

Total cost for the pizza oven stand: $154
Running total (foundation, stand): $364

Tools

Building the stand doesn’t require many tools, and most of them I already used on the foundation. The only new thing needed is something to cut the rebar. Since I already had an angle grinder, that’s how I cut the rebar (that angle grinder also comes in handy later in the project when I cut bricks for the dome).

Lay Out the Base

Since I am not one of those people who absolutely gets everything right on the first try (although I like to think I am, there have been way to many situations that have proved me wrong), I decided to dry stack my block on my driveway as a test run. This was good so that I could get a feel for how big this pizza oven was going to be. I actually did this last fall before pouring my foundation.

testing the layout of the pizza oven stand

Here is my dry test run to make sure the size works. Those bricks were back before I decided on the dome style.

After the test run was a success, I measured the block stand and then made the foundation slightly bigger than the stand. As you can see from the above trial setup, the final stand is 4 blocks wide, 4.5 blocks deep, and 4 rows high.  When actually starting the real stand, I knew that it was very important to get the first course right.  I double checked, then triple checked that the first course was both level and square.  After all, if I screwed this part up, there wasn’t much hope for me in the rest of the project.

laying out the block pizza stand

Laying out the first course of block. See the level? It's important! Make sure the first row is both level and square.

Although you could mortar the whole block stand, I took the route suggested in the Forno Bravo plans. I dry stacked the entire stand, dropped a piece of re-bar into every other core, and then filled it with concrete. For the rebar that is being dropped into the cores, cut 4 of the 10 ft pieces into 4 equal 30” lengths (if my math is right, that gives 16 pieces of rebar at 30” in length). I cut a couple of pieces incorrectly so the pictures show a little bit differently than what I could have done.

Put the empty concrete bags into the holes that you don't want concrete going into.

The oven stand is complete and ready for the hearth. Notice some missing cores? I'll fill those in when I pour the hearth.

The only other piece of the stand that I didn’t mention in the front span.  Since the blocks are spanning over the “door” to the storage area, the angle iron is required to hold up the blocks.  Since I was a cheapo on the angle iron (1/8″ vs. the recommended 3/8″), I decided to give some extra support and put some rebar across the span.  Along with some concrete, that should be plenty strong enough.

rebar on the front span blocks

The front span was hollowed out and rebar placed for extra strength.

That’s it for the stand!  Next up:  Pouring the Hearth.  When I go to pour the hearth, I will fill in the rest of the holes, along with the front span above. By pouring some of the cores at the same time as the hearth, it cures all at once and becomes much stronger.  Rather than 2 separate pieces, the hearth becomes “at one” with the stand.

pizza oven stand completed and ready for the hearth

Pizza oven stand completed and ready for the hearth

It has been a long time coming, but the time to build our pizza oven on our patio has finally arrived.  Similar to so many other DIY projects, the beginning is definitely not the most glamorous part.  Instead, it is simply the foundation of the rest of the project.  Without a good foundation, the pizza oven couldn’t exist.

So I actually misled you (a little) in the beginning. We aren’t actually breaking ground on our pizza oven foundation right now. Remember last year when we built our patio?  We built the foundation to our pizza oven at the same time.  We had lots of extra help from some workers (Dad, friends, etc.) so it was a perfect time to put them to good use.  We pay friends with food and beer, we get manual labor in exchange.  Good deal for us? I think so!

Choosing the Size of the Foundation

The pizza oven that we are building is going to be a dome style Italian pizza oven that has internal diameter of 36″.  This is important because all components from foundation up needs to be the right size for the 36″ oven.

Based on the plans from both The Bread Builder’s book and the Forno Bravo plans, the size of this foundation needs to be about 70″ wide by 80″ deep.  This leaves some extra room on the outside of the block stand for finish materials.  Here is how it breaks down:   36″ internal oven diameter + 9″ oven firebrick + 12″ insulation = 57″.  That leaves about 6 inches on each side to put on finish materials.

Materials & Cost

Here is everything that we used to build the foundation:

  1. 80lb bags of Quickrete:  35 @ $3.60/bag = $126
  2. 1/2″ rebar, 10′ ft sections:  4 @ $5.20/pc = $21
  3. Stone base:  We bought a whole truckload (18 tons) for the patio, but this was probably 1 ton:  ~$30
  4. 8ft sections of 2×6 lumber for forms:  4 @ 5.70 = $23
  5. Wire remesh: This depends on how you find it.  Sometimes it comes in a big roll.  Other times you can find smaller sections.  ~$10
  6. Some spare bricks or pieces of concrete:  FREE

Total cost for the pizza oven foundation:  $210

Here are the tools that I used (of course, if you don’t have them there are always ways to improvise):

  1. Tamper for the stone base
  2. Wheelbarrow to mix concrete
  3. Shovel or hoe to mix concrete and shovel all of the gravel
  4. Sledge hammer or regular hammer to pound the stakes for the form

Breaking Ground on the Foundation

The foundation supports the entire pizza oven.  Therefore, it needs to be both stable and strong.  To make it stable, we built a base of compacted crushed stone about 12 in thick.  Yes, this was overkill (normally 3″ is enough), but we had to make it level with the patio.  Since our yard slopes slightly, one side of our patio needed a lot of stone underneath.  The purpose of the gravel is to prevent freeze/thaw from damaging the slab.

The pizza oven formed up on the corner of the patio

The pizza oven is going to be at the back corner of the patio. See how the yard slopes off as you get toward the pizza oven side? This is why we needed 12" of stone underneath the foundation.

Pizza oven foundation with a compacted stone base

Here is a closeup of the future foundation that shows the stone base.

My dad is helping with staking the forms for the concrete foundation. It's always good to have a helper that knows much more than you do.

On top of the compacted stone, we poured a concrete slab 5.5″ thick. This was pretty easily accomplished by building the form with 2×6 lumber.  The slab was 70″ wide by 80″ deep. To save you from trying to do the math, this took about 35 of 80lb bags of concrete. Thankfully, Mr. Doug was there to lend a hand with the mixing, pouring, and screeding.

Mixing the concrete for the brick oven foundation

Doug is mixing up the concrete and helping pour. Extra muscles is always helpful!

Rebar and wire mesh is an important part of the foundation to provide additional strength.  Two pieces of rebar were placed along the outside of all four edges.  One is 4″ from the outside edges and the other 8″ in from the edges.  A sheet of wire mesh was placed on top of the rebar across the whole pad. Little pieces of brick held the mesh and rebar halfway up the slab at about 2.5 inches high.

Pouring concrete for the pizza oven foundation

This shows all of the important pieces of the foundation. Stone base, 2x6 forms, rebar on edges, wire remesh, and screeding the concrete.

Now it’s ready to finish mixing and pouring in the concrete.  The good thing about the foundation is that it will never be seen.  Therefore, you don’t have to make it nice and pretty.  It’s a good thing, because mine was pretty darn ugly!  But, it will do it’s job.  At this point, that’s all that matters.  I’ll worry about cosmetics later.

Finished oven foundation

The concrete has had time to cure for a couple of days after being covered with a tarp to keep in the moisture. Like I said, it isn't pretty, but it does the job!

Next up is building the stand for the pizza oven.

Throughout my years (as I begin my story sounding like those old timers telling a historical lesson…), I have visited a number of restaurants that have cooked in brick pizza ovens.  A couple that come to mind are Macaroni’s grill and California Pizza kitchen.  Then last year, when Lara and I  took a trip to New York City, we got the priviledge to see some of the history of pizza in the US at the coal fired brick ovens of  Lombardi’s and John’s pizzerias.  Lombardi’s claims to be the first pizzeria in the  country (opened back in 1905).  But no matter how much history is in a restaurant, it was always so cool to look into the oven and see a pizza cooking right next to the flames of a wood fire.

 

Coal fired brick pizza oven at Lombardi's in NYC

Until last year, I always thought that these cool wood fired pizza ovens were reserved for restaurants.  Then one day out of the blue (a few months before our NYC trip) Lara tells me that she wants a pizza oven in our backyard.  Not far off from my reaction to many of her suggestions, my response was along the lines of…”What? Seriously? You must be crazy.  Those are for restaurants!”  Then, after thinking about it for a bit, I realized that a pizza oven in our backyard would be really cool.  So, for over a year now, we have been toying with the idea of building a brick pizza oven in our backyard.

Over this year, I have had lots of time to do what I do best. Research.   A pizza oven isn’t something you just walk out the back door and start building without a little / lot of knowledge.  What did I learn?

There are two different philosophies for building brick ovens: Barrel vault ovens and dome style italian ovens. As with anything else in life, each has advantages and disadvantages.

BARREL VAULT OVENS (Alan Scott ovens)

When I started my research, I came across a book called The Bread Builders.  The first half of the book talks about  how to bake bread and the back half of the book is dedicated to building brick ovens to bake that bread.  Throughout this section, it also talks about different design considerations for those people wanting to cook pizza (that would be me). Since I had yet to discover any other oven designs at the time that I was reading this, I was just going to roll with this barrel style pizza oven.  It was all that I knew.

So what is a barrel style oven?  It’s pretty much like it sounds.  If you cut a barrel in half lengthwise, that would be the shape of the oven.

Barrel vault pizza oven

A barrel vault pizza oven in progress. Notice the rectangular floor, the back wall, and the "half barrel" top

Ok, now we know what it looks like, but how does it work?  What are some pros/cons?

Pros:
1.  Barrel ovens, due to the rectangular floor, are an excellent shape to fit many loaves of bread.
2.  These ovens have a ton of thermal mass (aka brick, concrete, etc).  Therefore, once the oven gets hot, it stays hot for a long, long time.  Why is this good you ask? (and even if you didn’t ask, I’ll still answer).  To take advantage of this, here is what you could do.  When the oven is at its hottest right after the fire has been removed (around 700-800 degrees), you can cook pizza. Then after it cools down to around 400-500 degrees, you can bake bread.  The oven even stays hot long enough to bake bread twice.  The next morning, it would still be hot enough to bake a roast, etc.  This is a lot of cooking on just one firing.

Cons:
1.  The shape of this oven isn’t conducive to direct heat baking.  Direct heat baking is when the fire is left burning while you cook.  Coincidentally, this is how pizza is best cooked.  Also, isn’t one of the major appeals of a brick oven bent able to look inside at the fire cooking your food?  It is for me.
2.  Although the thermal mass helps the oven stay hot for a long time, this also means that it takes a long time to heat up.  Think 2-3 hours just to get it hot enough to cook.  Who has that long to wait everytime?  That puts it as a weekend only event for me.

Dome style ovens (Italian Pompeii ovens)

Right before I was ready to start this whole pizza oven project, I thought I would research one more time.  Boy am I glad I did!  I came across this new style of pizza oven called a Pompeii style pizza oven (also called Tuscan and Neopolitan depending on design).  Over on fornobravo.com, they have tons of information on this style oven including forums with loads of information and helpful people.  What is a dome style oven?  Instead of a barrel shape, it more closely resembles the shape of an igloo.  This is the style that you find across much of Italy.  Apparently, in Italy, brick ovens are like the BBQ/grills of the US!  They are in many households across the country.

Cooking pizza in dome style brick oven

Cooking a pizza in a dome style brick oven using the direct heat method.

 

Italian brick pizza oven under construction

Here is a view of a dome style oven being built.

Pros:

1.  The shape is perfect for direct heat cooking.  Since the dome is a sphere and perfectly symmetrical, it reflects heat evenly across the whole floor.  No cold spots!
2.  Since these ovens don’t have as much brick/concrete (4″ thick vs. 9″ thick barrel oven), they heat up much faster.  They can be pizza ready in 45 minutes.  This is perfect for any night of the week!
3.  Since there isn’t as much brick to keep hot, the hot temperatures required for cooking pizza (700 degrees) can be sustained longer if a fire is kept burning.

Cons:
1.  This oven won’t stay hot for nearly as long after the fire is removed.  But it could still bake 1 round bread after cooking pizza.  Who needs more than that?  Not me!
2.  Since these oven floors are round, it isn’t the best shape for packing in as many loaves of bread as the barrel oven.  But I’m no bakery, so a couple of loaves per week is plenty for me.

Although it depends on what you are going after, the dome style was a perfect fit for me (could you tell?).  And now that we have settled on which style we want, it’s time to start building!  Below is a pic of some inspiration.  This oven is definitely cool!

Inspirational brick oven.

 

Gardening season is now upon us. As you may know, our first garden last year was a little bit of a flop (and if you don’t know, here were our garden problems).  Since Lara and I are  both pretty stubborn individuals, we decided to try our garden again.  However, as promised in my last garden post, this year our garden is going to blow last years garden out of the water.  Why, you might ask?  This year we are trying a whole new strategy.  And it is called (drum drum drum drum drum…) ……………….Square Foot Gardening

If you have already heard of this before, you aren’t alone. After all, it is the self proclaimed best selling garden book of all time. Whether or not this is true, I don’t know.  But what I do know is that the process sounds legit to me and we are diving in head first to this new method.

If you have never heard of Square foot gardening before, I’ll sum up the gist here. In my own terms.

  • Most of the soil in this world sucks for gardening and trying to amend soil takes a lot of work, time, and/or money.  Let’s mix our own soil instead.
  • The old gardening method of wide rows between plants is archaic.  It is one of those things that most of us just always accept without asking, “Why in the world is gardening done that way?”  There are tons of problems with that whole row philosophy.  It wastes space, causes unnecessary tilling, encourages weed growth, etc, etc.

So, in one sentence, here is what we are going to do. Using self mixed soil in elevated beds, we are going to plant 5 times the amount of vegetables in the same exact space as last year.  What the…?  How is that possible?

As mentioned above, typical gardens have those wide aisles that you walk down to tend to the plants.  But really, what purpose are the aisles serving?  Here is what the aisles do:

  1. Aisles let us walk to get our plants.  As we walk, we compact the soil.
  2. Aisles let many weeds grow.
  3. Because of the compaction and weeds, aisles need tilling

Do you see anywhere how aisles help the plants grow?  Nope!  By getting rid of the aisles, we can space plants much closer together.  All in all, an aisleless garden requires only 20% of the space of the standard garden with aisles.  I’ll get into some more details in a bit.  But first, let’s build our new garden.

Mixing the new dirt

One of our biggest garden problems last year was our poor clay soil.  This year, we aren’t even going to worry about that clay soil. We are are going to make our own instead.  This soil will be fertile, light and airy, drain really well, but yet absorb and holds water like a sponge.  What is the recipe?  Pretty simple really. The ingredients should (cross your fingers), be available at nearby garden centers.  These ingredients are:  1/3 peat moss, 1/3 vermiculite, and 1/3 compost.

Vermiculite and peat moss for the square foot gardening soil mix

Course agricultural vermiculite and peat moss make up 2/3 of the new soil

Selecting compost types for the garden

Here is 1/3 of the garden soil mix. Choose a few different types of compost the ensure a variety of nutrients

At least 4 different composts should be used to get the biggest variety of nutrients.  I used a few different bags of manure compost, some potting soil, and leaf compost.  Mix up the compost first and then add in the other two ingredients.

Hiding underneath is the different compost types all mixed up. Then I put the peat moss and vermuculite on top and mixed together.

Build the raised beds

These raised beds are cheap. Nothing fancy.  Square foot gardening is based on 4 foot by 4 foot square beds that are 6 inches tall.  Therefore, the only construction material needed are 2×6′s.  Avoid treated lumber.  Who wants chemicals in their garden?

Building a square foot garden

A single 4x4 foot bed made from 2x6 untreated lumber. Landscaping fabric on bottom is a good idea to stop weeds from coming up from below.

Once the beds are built, we filled them up with our new dirt. They are automatically ready for planting. No waiting for lime or fertilizer to take effect.  Yes! Instant gratification!

By building a grid of 1x1 foot square, we have a true "Square Foot Garden"

Ok.  So now we get to the “square foot” part.  Each 4×4 box is broken up into 16 squares, each being 1 square foot.  How much can be planted in each square foot?  The package of seeds has all the information we need.  What is the seed spacing?

3 in = 16 / square foot
4 in = 9/ square foot
6 in = 4/square foot
12 in = 1/square foot

It sounds crazy, but here is what we are going to fit in a single 4×4 box (that’s only the box on the left in the pic above):

32 carrots  (2 squares)
8 bunches of spinach  (2 squares)
16 beets (1 square)
27 onions  (3 squares)
8 heads of lettuce  (2 squares)
3 tomato plants (3 squares)
1 cucumber plant (1 square)
1 zucchini plant (1 square)
Peas (1 square)

It sounds pretty amazing.  Now we wait for everything to grow!

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